The Golf Course’s Necessary Evils: Aerification and Overseeding |
| Written by Brandon Underwood Online Editor | |
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As the end of the summer season approaches in golf travel hotbeds like Florida and South Carolina, courses prepare for another boom in business as sweltering temperatures give way to conditions more favorable for a round of golf. In preparation for winter play when bermudagrass, the playing surface most commonly associated with golf courses throughout the Southeast, goes dormant, superintendents and their staffs will put down ryegrass (or some other type of winter-friendly seed) on top of the bermudagrass, timed so that as the bermudagrass goes dormant, the ryegrass grows in. Overseeding is a longer and more complex process when compared to aerifying, requiring up to six-weeks to be completed. During this time period golf courses will become more difficult to play because of the transition but greens fees should be reduced to compensate for the lower quality standard experienced. The benefits of overseeding include better playing conditions in the winter, a more beautiful golf course during those months and more income potential for daily-fee courses. Of course, the question of whether to overseed or not is often controversial because of the lost revenue and costs associated with the process. Overseeding isn't unique to the Southeast; it's also become a popular practice in 365-day golf destinations like Texas, Arizona, California and Las Vegas.
Golfers irked by those tiny plugs of soil disrupting their putting should consider that aerification is merely a short-term disruption that has long-term benefits for the course. When you see them, remember that without those little holes, the greens would eventually die. Much like Olympic athletes who only appear once every four years, what we see during most of our trips to the golf course is the finished product. Understanding the process and reasoning behind routine maintenance like aerification, like learning about the workout regimens and sacrifices made by world champion swimmer's and gymnasts, helps us appreciate the work put in "under the surface" to achieve the finished product. Let's start by looking at what goes into producing a high-quality green. In order for grass to grow at such a short cut (3/16 of an inch or less), it must have a deep, healthy root system. Good roots require oxygen. In quality soils, the roots get oxygen from tiny pockets of air trapped between soil and sand particles. All of that foot traffic each and every day tends to compact the soil directly underneath the green complex - particularly when the soil contains a lot of clay. Upon compaction, the tiny air pockets on which the roots depend are crushed, and the roots are left gasping for air. Without oxygen, the grass plants become weaker and will eventually wither and die. Of the three objectives of aerification, the most important is relieving soil compaction, which lets those roots breath. Aerification also provides a method to improve the soil mixture around the highest part of a green's roots and reduces or prevents the accumulation of excess thatch. Aerification, like overseeding, is more visible in 365-day golf destinations. When a golf course plans on operating year-round, routine maintenance is bound to affect dozens of rounds but with a constant schedule, golf courses can't be expected to be perfect every day. A word of advice: if you're planning on visiting popular spots like Orlando, Myrtle Beach, Hilton Head or Tampa this fall, ask about the aerification schedule and plan accordingly. Aerification Process Depending on a course's annual traffic volume, the aerification of greens and fairways occurs two to three times per year. To aerify, most courses use a machine that punches holes into the ground and removes dirt in a certain pattern. Aside from alleviating compaction, it also opens growing room for the roots and increases oxygen to the roots. The aerification process has actually been known to help chase ryegrass out during the spring transition back to bermuda. Adjustments to Play When greens are bumpy and sandy you need to make a few adjustments in your short game technique. First, take a more lofted club to hit pitches and chip shots. Second, swing back longer and accelerate through to a higher finish to get the ball up and spinning. The ball will not roll on shaggy greens, so you are better off carrying the ball close to the hole and letting it stop quickly with a minimal amount of roll. Overseeding and Aerification can put a damper on your round if you're unaware of when or why they're being done. But a simple understanding of the processes, how they help your favorite golf course and how to avoid running into them can eliminate most of your headaches. Just remember to call ahead this fall if you're planning on playing in warm climates like Florida, South Carolina, Texas, Arizona and Nevada.
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